knife review

Knife Review : Cold Steel "Finn Wolf" + Scandi Grinds Explained…

29 replies on “Knife Review : Cold Steel "Finn Wolf" + Scandi Grinds Explained…”

The zoomed-in thing was the spring, it doesnt add to lateral structural load strength. The lock bar may add some rigidity, but it shouldnt be depended upon two jobs of holding the blade fixed AND providing structural integrity when the handle material would probably fail first, perhaps moreso in colder weather, disintegrating from the mechanism of locking.

At 8:50 the train goes off the tracks!
Knife bevel angles are measured from the centerline. There is no such thing as a zero-degree grind, unless you are maybe discussing a scraper with a 90° (or maybe the spine side of the blade, but even then NO!).

Your Espada cutting-edge angle (at hypothetically referenced

20-dps) is 20° off the center-line (which is parralel to face), and FinnWolf has cutting-edge angle measured from center-line (probably around 13-dps, my FinnWolf currently at ~9-dps) is certainly not a zero-degree angle or bevel.

Ignorantly repeating what others say (zero-grind) is a disservice to our community.

If you want to make a case that there is zero-degree difference between primary and secondary bevels (aka scandi-grind to cutting edge) , then you would first need to state that you are using the primary-grind as your baseline (something nobody does).

Hopefully …, my comments here are taken as intended, effort to correct ignorant parroting in community for bennifit of us all.

Enjoyed the video up to this point.

I disagree I think Scandinavian grinds are easier you could feel the edge just keep it in contact with the stone versus something like my Tuff Lite I can't even see the edge or angle

I sharpen the wolf just fine. Just keep the grind flat & go back & forth with your finger on the grind to keep it flat.

For those wondering, cold steel fixed the problem of the lock back jamming so the new knife works perfectly. Many old reviews say that this happened a lot.

I got mine in a regular box for $35 and I love it. Performs great as long as you keep it oiled. It tends to rust on me more than my other Cold Steels in my experience. Going to carry it again tomorrow since it's not supposed to be as hot and humid in my area!! Haha

Nice. Got two of these, one was very hard to open. Learned from Cold Steel support that the Tri-Ad locking system might require a "break-in". Got the following advice. Tried the second one and it worked fine after a day open:

"1- Open and close the knife repeatedly. You do not have to open it all the way to the locked position, just work the blade back and forth. This may take a few hundred opening actions to get the spring to relax enough to make the lock easier to operate.

2- Open the knife 1/2 way to 90 degrees. Put it down somewhere safe. Leave it alone for 3 or 4 days. This will put constant pressure against the spring and again should loosen it up to make operating the lock easier."
btw they got them w/various handle colors now I notice, not just the gray.

I'm Scandinavian and love this knife. The shape must hit on some DNA memory because I just love it. Most of my knives are Scandinavian.

Considering buying this or a mora eldris for a small backpacking/light bushcraft blade (fell in love with scandi grinds). Considering both arnt hard use blades kinda hard to decide. Decisions…. interested in your opinion/possible other recommendations. Ps i already have a larger mora knife but looking for a smaller footprint @cutlerylover

I cannot speak for chineese-american tacticool junk but most other "scandi grind" knives have either a secondary micro bevel or are slightly convexed and should be sharpened as such. If you dont you will end up taking an insane amount of metal off when you have to sharpen because the entire side will have to be ground down. This is especially bad if your edge is dented. If you want a proper scandi folder that is actually made in scandinavia I would suggest swedish brand EKA or some of the many awesome finnish manufacturers like Martiini..

it's easy to sharpen, just use a leather strop often and you won't need stones unless of course you damage the blade. Also the thumb stud is removable.

As far as Scandi style blades… I only own one, from TOPS (and its a neck knife). It's bit thinner than my other knives, but its very precise. I wouldn't mind owning one that's bit bigger than the one I have. As far as sharpening goes… I am currently running the Scandi on 30 degree (15 degree each side) on the Spyderco sharpening rod system.

Love your channel and everything about it we share many of the same hobbies such as zippos,knives, and probably many other things anyways keep up the good work.

IDK, maybe it's because I am a knife guy, but a Scandi is the easiest to sharpen on a stone. Just press it down and go for it. No guess work involved at all. I wouldn't try to do it on a Lansky system though or you will end up with that secondary bevel. I use a strop like you, but when I need to I use the Spyderco Double Stuff ceramic in the field or their Whet Stone ceramic's at home!

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